Eiger summit in 5 hours - article
German climbers Michael Wohlleben (20), a member of Rock Pillars climbing team, and Fritz Miller (26) climbed 1700 meter high Eiger north wall (3970 m) in 5 hours and 10 minutes.Michael Wohlleben has in his 20 years already number of extreme hard rock-, ice- and mixed routes behind him and recently also speed ascent through Eiger north wall. Together with Fritz Miller he stood at dawn 10th February at start of Heckmair´s route.
Right at 7 o´clock they started to climb. Quite a good track speeded up their ascent from the beginning. By Difficult Crack, they had to line up behind the waiting rope-teams. After this part, they started to overtake the others and after they get over Hinterstoisser Traverse, the way was free. The first and second ice-fields were soon behind them. Under the buttress called Flatiron, they made a short pause to take a sip. Refreshed they continued over Death Bivouac onto the Ramp. They almost could not believe that they needed less than 3 hours to get here. Weather and conditions were like a dream, temperature ideal. They were sure that from here they can reach the top without any time problems, so why should they hurry? Michael and Fritz are no record hunters. Though they are ambitious enough and now they have a good chance to do the most famous wall in the Alps - Eiger Nordwand in pretty short time. Fascinating! So they want to keep their speed.
Now one of the most difficult parts of the wall – steep famous Waterfall Pitch at the top of the Ramp is in front of them. The bottom part is snowy and without ice and can be climbed quickly without gloves, at the upper part they go with ice axes further tu Brittle Ledge. The Brittle Crack following after that is not that bad and in exposed Traverse of the Gods no time remains for taking pleasure in deep views. In Spider, they are leaving further climbers behind them. The Quartz Crack above the Spider needs again full concentration of the climbers. From Corti Bivouac, they are carefully using old ropes until they reach the beginning of the long final chimney, which is covered with ice. These last pitches to the summit ice field are a test for their calf muscles, but it goes well.
In 5 hours in gloomy north wall, they are reaching finally Mittelleg Ridge and few minutes later the summit of Eiger. Now they have time to enjoy their effort and the beautiful scenery of the Bern Alps and of course the fact, that they have survived another adventure in Eiger north face without any damage (which is not a matter-of-course).
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